Last



Jan. 27, 1931. J MAHLER 1,790,064

- LAST Filed May 51, 1924 2 Shays-Sheet 2 e3= ff Jr 1 22 A}; gm: if 4 ippenand sewediwit'h"thezupper to the sole.'

Patented is; 27, 1931 u 1 TED :S'TATEES" mm IMAHIJEB, {or ivnwyonx; 1N. Y., LASSIGNOBA'IVOIUNITED *S HOE'MAGHI NERY COR- IORATION, emfreseason, NEW-JERSEY,-LA-ACOBPORATION? OF-NEW JERSEY :ILAST Application filed Maylfi,

- 1:5 ,pxgoj eoting. margin ofthe'so'le.

In'themanu'factu're'of the hette'rjgi adesiof s'titohfdown -shoes,' a 'sole largenthan the: last 'lbottom is vsecured-3G0the bottom df the last andthenpper'is'woi'ked joverthe lastfunder no "tension, and tucked into. the angle "between v the side offthe ilas't and t'he jproje'ctin'g marin of "the sole; where itisi'pe manently secured, usuallyfby staples. *Intheeasehta single-sole 'stitch'down shoe, the'sole referred yid'e d, 'and'to feompletetheshoe a weltis usually applied to the 'outturnedufiange of the hissho'eis cheapto manufaeture and very 20 fiexihle hnt is'nojt re airahle except with shoe factory I facilities.

I n'thefease of a two sole s'titchdownf shoe,1the first sole, to fwhiehfthe upper and lining, if any, "are preliminarily fastened in 'outturned I relation,"may he .e'ompa1 atiyely thin; and a "thiekeri'soleis then appliejcl and -secured by 'ajseam extending lth'roughithewlt, upper, lining andthe two "soles. This shoe "costs a little more'inlabor and material thanithe single-sole stitchdoyjvn andjs not quite so flexible biit'ha's'the deoidedadvantage that it may be repairedwith *th'e u's'u'al repair shop facilities. The presenceof thelining'vin the shoe edge, however;

renders satisfactory edge finishing diflicultl -Athird and Still bettei type of stitc'hdownshoe has three soles, the first-or'innersoleeor- :respon'di'ng in shape and size to "the last bot- 'tom, Thelining of the 'shoegis then lasted:

inwardly and secured, for example, by eentent, tothe innersole. I thin-middle sole,. 'Whiehis danger than the last bottom, -is "then appliedand .the upper lasted and prelimiinarily fastened to"'thej1nargin-of the middle "sole. outsole .anclrwelt are then applied 7 I per. isiwell'snpportedg'bythe innersole,the

easilyreplaced when wornout.

{used :for stitehdowns except for the bottom" Tail (l thewelaup er; inner'soleandoutsole secunedftogether 'byfla strong seam. E' Ihis shoe il hasfexeeptiona'l strength and durahilityflhe .1924. Serial- No. 717 017.

While the better grades of stiteh'down shoes, particularly the three-sole stitehdown v shoes 'oflthe type above referred to, *have v 'c ompeted to a substantial extent with shoes of .othe'I f types, stitch'do'wn shoes as hereto-h "fore made, "Whether one, two or three-sole rshoes, an'do'fhowevergood grade, have,'genlier ally speaking, been at a disadvantage in competition, particulaily with eorres'ponding gradesof MoKa'y sewecl and Welt shoes, principally 'because o'f their lack oi "stylish appearance. This handicap is especially conspicuous as to ;the 'better"grades of stitohdown *shoes; particularly fstitehdown shoes of tlie 'three sOleQty e madein, the.

larger sizes intended to be 'WOID} by *ajdults, 'since,.yyhile"suoh shoes have exe'ellentwearing qu'a1itie's an'dja're of'agrade intended' tov compete with MKay sewed and Welt shoes, their lack of style and generally. inferior ap- "peai ance; in comparison with Welt and Me- :Kay sewed shoes, "Very greatly limit stitchdown s'hoe production. r

' Tlii' la'k of style" and acceptable appearance in 'stitchdown shoes as heretofore ma'h: jufaetured-is largely due to'the faet that such "shoes donot'have the acute angle'hetween, the upper and V solefpro] ection characteristic of Welt and'MeKay shoes and'refe'rre'd'to generally as the"welt"ere"ase.; V This acute angle is' fojrmed by the drawingiof the upper "over the -bottomof theinsole andxagainst the 7 edge of the "insole Attempts have been madet'oisecure this-effect in stitohdown shoes 'b bevelingthelast bottom or by beveling the;

"but with only partial success because of the] fintoi'anangle-necessarily so sharp. Alllasts beveling, when .used, have, howeyer, been lsnbsta'ntially like elt and McKay lasts, that is, they have had the largest periphery of the forepart of the lastsubstantially' atithejbote5 insole which covers-the "last bottom, ;or -.both,

difficulty of -Working the outturnedinppe t 7 i 'a last "for stitehdown' shoes byj the .use of which the welt crease characteristic of Welt I r 9 5 O bjeets of'this invention'arejto provide and the proper positioning of the welt in the angle of the upper facilitated.

With these objects in view features of the invention consist in a stitchdown last having the greatest aeriphery of its torepart spaced above the plane of its bottom surface, the side of the last between the line of largest periphery and the smaller periphery of the last bot'" tom being curvedinwardly. As shown here- 1n, thls curve ls'a circular curve of constant radius from the ball line on the outer side of the 'last substantially to the tip line on the inner side of the last, andfrom the tip line on the inner side-of the last to the ball line on that side the radius of. the curve gradually increases, the line of largest periphery theretore gradually receding from the plane of the last bottom. Stated in another .wa'y, the projection of the'last upon the planeot, the last bottom is larger than the lastbottom and eX- tendsbeyond-it at all points about the forepart,"the projection extending a uniform distance beyond the last bottom from the ball line on the outer side ofthe last substantially to the tip line on the opposite side of the and increasing fromv that point to ball lineon the inner side of the; last.

I j The size of the insole required for a given 1 last embodying this inventionistheretore smaller than the insole required for ausiial last'ot that size, and similar economies are efl'ectcd in the other sole or soles requiredac- -cording to the type of stitchdown being manutactured.

' Furthermore,

operation of sewing the welt, upp e r and sole the side of the last between its line of greatest periphery and the bottom of the last, and the welt guiding surface of the table can extend further inwardly of the shoethan 1t canv *when usual lasts are employed. The welt is thus crowded closely into theangle ofthe upper formed between the side of the last. 'and the extending'margin ot the sole or,-if' I the shoe has an insole, into .the angle formed between the edge: ot-the: insole'andth'e e'X-- tended margin of the sole. This pronouncedacute angle in the welt "crease produced in lasting over this lastis' niaintained and' en hanced inthe operation of lay ng thePwelt andsewing it to th upper and outsolefivith the result that a stitchdown shoe of ivery aa "ceptable appearanceis' produced and tone caj .p ableiot favorable comparison with the welt I for McKay. product of equator. greaterhcost. to

lisa view otthe bottom'ota last em-v bodying the inventionq, i

. In thedrawingg,

Fig, 2-is a transverse sectional yiew otthe. Y last. on the line C..D otFig. ,1, l0olzing;toward the rear end of the last;

two andthree-sole stitchdown shoe .made :on a last embodying this inventiong when a shoe lasted one last embodying this invention is presented to the table of the outsole sewing: machine. forthe V 'the'ball line. .together. the table engages that portion of Fig. 3 is a cross-section of the last on the line EF of Fig.- 1; V

- Fig. 4 is a longitudinal section of the toe end of the last on the line G-I-I of Fig. 1;

Fig. 5 is a transverse sect-ion similar to that offFig. 2 of a last of larger size;

Figs. 6, 7 and 8 are transverse sections of shoes and lasts showing respectively a one-,

Fig. 9 is a diagrammatic viewshowing how the surface of the last to which the upper is shapedis related to the last'bottom;

and

Fig; 10 is a sectional viewota shoe-and last showing its relation to the table'of an outsole sewing machine;

represents the bottom of a lastlembodying the presentinvention. The-outer line K otthe figure indicates the. greatest.

' periphery of the last, or the projection of the last upon the plane of the lastbottom. The inner line L is the periphery of'the last bot tom. At the foreparhwith which this in- ..vention isfparticularly concerned, it will-be 1 seen that t-he line K is spaced outwardly from the line L at all points. The line AB represents approximately the ball line of the last, andthe line E-F the tip line. Itwill' be apparent that: the distance separating the .lines K and L is substantially uniform from the point B at theend of the ball line on the outerside of the last to theend E ofthe' J'tip lineon the inner-side of the last, and that :from the point E on the inner side of the last the distance between the. lines, gradually in-- creases to the'point A; at the inner'end' of "From? the periphery L of the llastibottoln the sides of the last curve upwardly and out.-

wardly'to the lineK in anunbroken' curve without reentrantfportionsh Referring to Fig. 3-,. which is a section on the tip line it. will be. seen thatthe sides of the last-below the line of greatest periphery are curved-inwardly on an arc 'K ,L whichis preferably lcircularwith its center Min a line parallelsto the last bottom and passing through the line K of greatest periphery. The'radius K'ot the'curve K L is of such.

"125 shown h w v its; helength of thearc LK increases atthe sectioniC D to L. K the radius increases to K" land as the. arc increases to L ..K.'? -at .theiball line A B theradiu sincreases to KM.";"130 v That is, the angular 'value ofthe :arc remains constant-. This relation will lore clearer from is equal to the distance theline (if-greatest {periphery extends beyond the last bottom,

and P L is equal to the ll leightwise spacing of the line of greatest periphery above the plane of the lastxb'ottom. The line kPLis by the radius-M L or Band Mr'is theprodthe product of. the sine "of the angle.,K M L uct of its cosine byl the radius R. Refer- 7 ring to the angle-K M Lla's m for "con Venience. PL=R sin PZZ=R "(l-cos m).

m, MP=R cosm, and

:sin m l-oos m that is theheightwise displacement of the line of-"greatest periphery ofthe 'lastj from .the plane of the last bottom is 2.5 times the projection ofthat line beyond the edge of V. the lastbottom. This relation holds forother i parts of. the periphery as represented at the ,leftofIEigQ, thedimensionsincreasing and the are LK of thesmaller last.

the proportions remaining constant. I .InEFig. 5 is.represented a section of-a last of larger size than that .ofFig. 2. .It will be seen that "While other dimensions have lieen i ncreased'j to provide increased capae-ity for the shoe, the length of :the arc mung the as m the SmaI er Slze 0 1g 1outersole121 applied; lnieachcase avvelt 22 qiswappli'ed 'to ithe' outturned flange of the The arc 'L K 'also'fis of'the same length. as

' V in a setof lasts of all. sizes, the length of the arcs at corresponding points willbe'the salne.

It follows that a setof lasts 'eaoh'embodying' j this invention cannot be produced by pantojgraphic =reprod1'1ction of agiv n last as a model with all. itsdimensions proportionately increased or dimlnlshed but that-a setof'lasts will bemade having the haraoteristics dejfin'edandjthen each. last of the'set WillJbe used'as a model to produce'other lasts ofthe same size. 1 Lasts previously employed .for sjtitc'hdown work have been substantially like l-lasts for tvelt work,except.that in someinstan'ces the margin of the last'bottom has be en beveled, and .these lastshavehadtheir line of greatest periphery, except for a short distance ad jacent'tofthe end ofithe ball lineon the inner i a substantial saving of solefleather is effeoted, n'otonly for theinnersole, when used,

side of theshoe, substantially at the edge of the last bottom. It will be apparent there fore that: a given size of last embodying this invention has a bottom substantially smaller than a usual last: of the same size. Thus,

which corresponds in size tothe .bottomiof the 'last; but: also "in the middle and outer 'With the :angle selected for illustration (43.5 degrees) theiratio U That is,

sion :of :the sole 'orsole's employed.

gunattainablez- I q 1 y a .7 'iI-Iavingthus :described imy; invention, what, 1 I claim as n'eW afldiClQSlIG'tUSGCUEGibYLEttflIS- extension 'soles whioh may be corresponding "ly "smaller without affecting the amount 'of extension of thesesoles beyond "the "edge of the innersoleor'beyond the last bottom.

Figs. 6, 7 and "8 illustrate respectively a one-sole, a two-sole and a three-sole stitohdown made over lasts embodying'the :inventionr The surface of the last from the line T'K of greatest 'periph'ery over theitop of the "last to the corresponding line 'K "of greatest periphery on the opposite side of the lastim'ay 'be' referred to as theupp'ershaping surfaceiof upper will naturally conform Without substantial lasting tension, and the surfacei from the last, that is, "the surface to Which-Ethe the "last bottom may be called thesurface :of

the lastitofvhichthe 'upper is'shapedin lasting, since it requires "the active operation-of a lasting-tool such asza stapling nozzleto'con- -form the upper to 'thissurface. In .eaoh'instance. as shown, the upper flO "has "been shaped to this inwardly curved surfaoe'and secured,for-example, bystaples, to the sole In Fig. ,6 a single sole 12: is shown and the staples 114; :are driven 1 part way'fthrough-the sole and are not clinched. .Ill'Flg. 7 an ex- "tension innersole '16 is "shown thr0ugh vvhich the staples 17 are driven an d clinched; [In Fig. 18 an innersole .18 'o'ftthe same size as the 5 bottom of the lastis use'd,.over which the fli-n ing *20 is ilasted, :as shown, and "secured,'tfor example :by cement, the upper being lasted and secured .by-'clincheid st; ples .17 to an extension innersole or finiddlea'solevlQand an upper and secured by-s'titches :24*t0 theeexten 2 Another advantage ilUCldGIltilIO the -nse of "lasts embodying :the invention 'llS realized in 'the 'outsole sewing operation. The table26 0f ith'e-toutsole sewingmachine,-shown in sec? *tion in E'Fig..l0, engages "the upper over the surface of :the last *to vvhich the upper "has been shape'dtit'hat is, betweenithe lines K and L. TheftableihasIa ledgeQS-whioh' engages the edge-of the Welt 22 and forces it into the,

tweenithe outer surfacesof *the 'We'lt and the upperiis sharp. and Well defined, thatis, an acute angled welt crease is produced in e to a degree heretofore stitchdown shoe *Work Patent of the United fStatesis:

angle 'ofthe-outurned upper. The inwardly curved contour of thezlast *KL thus'permits therinner 'edge of ftheiwelt22 to .be brought well inside the .Iline'v of greatest periphery V of the last, *Withtheresult that the anglebe- "ll last 1' for "use' in the manufacture of i -stit'chdovvn shoes having a forepart -extench "ing in a ourved'surface to'the edge of theiilast lootfifnn", the projection of the "forepart upon the. plane of the last bottom extending bethe forepart and increasing progressively for the remainder ofthe peripheryof the forepart.

2. Alast V stitchdown shoes having a forepart the projection of whichuponithe plane of the last bottom extends beyond the last bottomby an amount which uniform from the ballline on the outer side of the last to: the end of the tip line on the inneriside of the lastand increases from that point to the inner end i of the ball line. r r

3; A last for use in the manufacture of stitchdown shoes comprising an upper shapmg surface and a bottom surface the, pe

riplier'y of which is less than thatof the upper shaping surface, the peripheriesof said surfaces being connected by an unbroken curved surface having a substantially constant radius for the greater part of the disrtance about the forepart from ball line to "ball line. p I

4. A last for use in the manufacture of V p the way to the edge of the last bottom being stitchdownshoes comprising an upper shap ing' surface and a bottom surface the periphery of whichis less than that of the upper shaping surface, the peripheries of said surfaces being connected :by a curvedsurface of substantially constant radius from the endof the balllline onthe outside of the shoe to theend of the tip line on the opposite side of the shoe. i y '5. A last for use. in the} manufactureof stitchdown shoes comprising an upper shaping surface and abot-tomv surface the peif "being substantially; 2.5,

riphery of which isflessthan that-of the upper shaping surface, the peripheries of 'said surfaces belng connected by a curved surface on a substantially constantradius from the ball line on" the outer side of the last to the end of the .tip line. on the inner 7 side of the last and increasing in radius progressively fromthe end of'thetip' line to the end of the ball the last.

line on the inner side of 6. A last for use in the manufacture of stitchdown shoes comprisingan upper shaping surface and" a bottom surface the periphery or which is less than that: of the upper shaping surface, the peripheries of said surfaces being connected by a, convexly curved surface which for. aportion ofthe periphery'of the last gradually increases in it for thegreater portion of its periphery and of theqlast bottom, said heightwise spacing radius in a direction rearwardly of the last.

7. A last for use in the manufacture of -'stitchdown' shoes having thegreatest periph- 7 ery-ofits forep'art projecting beyond the edge of the last bottom by a uniform amount g the last from for use in the manufacture of the last from the last bottom, the side of the" bottomythe ratio I the edge of the last bottom being on a'clrculast bottom being everywhere; substantially theedgeof the last bottom. I

8. A lastyfor use in the manufacture of .stitchdown. shoes having its line of greatest v periphery substantially spacedheightwise of 0 the last bottom the side of the last from said line of greatest periphery all the way to the edge of the last bottom being one circular arevvhose center is in a 11116 parallel to thelast bottom and passing {I through the line of greatest periphery;

. :9. A last-for use in th'e'manufacture of stitchdown shoeshaving its line of greatest. periphery substantially spaced heightwise of last from said line ofgreatest periphery to the edge of'the last'bottom being on anarc of approlXimately 43 degrees whose center lies'si'ibstantiallyin a line parallel to-the last bottom passing through the line of greatest periphery. 7

10. A last for-use in the manufacture of stitchdown shoes having its line of'greatest periphery substantially spacedheightwise'of the last from the last bottom, the side of the last from said linerof greatestperipheryall' on a circular arc, and said arcbeing such that one minus the cosinefofthe angle subtendedby said are is proportional to the amount the 5 said angle is similarly proportionalto the heightwise spacing of said line above the last i sine g V l-cosine periphery, substantially spaced heightwise of the last from the last bottom, the side of the lastfrom said line of greatest periphery to lar arc whose center is in a line parallel to the'last bottom and passing "through the line of greatestperiphery, the distance from the line of greatest periphery-to the plane of the 5 two and one-half times the distance which the vline of greatest periphery extends beyond the last bott0m.'

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification. I

" JOHN'J, MAHLER:

spaced heightwiseof the last fromthe plane :1; 

